How to Care for Your Leather Shoes to Make Them Last Longer

05 May 2025 at 16:00Learn how to make your leather shoes last longer with this guide on daily cleaning, conditioning, polishing, proper storage and protection from water and stains.How to Care for Your Leather Shoes to Make Them Last LongerShoes, the defence mechanism for our feet, can go from safety items to comfort and even luxury. Leather shoes are a favourite of mine because they are very versatile. Job interviews, first dates, weekend adventures, religious outings… the list can go on, and leather shoes will carry you through. But other than their versatility, they have also proven to be long-lasting. A good pair can be expensive, so they practically last for years, even decades. In this guide, I’ll walk you through simple tips to help with your leather shoes’ durability and prevent cracks, creases, and scuffs.

1. Understand Your LeatherLeather is a “living” material: it breathes, absorbs moisture, and develops a unique patina over time. However, this natural flexibility and beauty depend on preserving its oils and structure. Neglect can cause stiffness, cracking, and irreversible damage. Regular care routines help maintain that supple feel and timeless look. It is also important not to wear the same pair of shoes two days in a row. Why? As with us, shoes also need time to rest; this time allows them to dry out well after a day’s use.

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Each time you wear your leather shoes, dust and dirt settle into the pores of the leather. To prevent the buildup of these substances:

Brush off surface debris with a soft-bristled or horsehair brush, which gently lifts away dust without scratching the finish.

Wipe with a slightly damp cloth if there’s mud or deeper grime. Use minimal water and let the shoe air dry. Never place them near heaters or direct sunlight, as heat can dehydrate and crack the leather.

3. ConditioningOver time, leather loses its natural oils, making it dry and brittle. Conditioning is done to replenish moisture. This process goes thus:

Apply a cream-based conditioner or leather cream using a clean, lint-free cloth.

Carefully rub it into the leather shoe with gentle, circular motions. Ensure every shoe part receives this treatment, from the upper part to the heel and the welt (a long strip of leather between the upper and the outsole).

Allow the conditioner to absorb for at least an hour before polishing off any residue with a soft brush.

The leather you wear frequently should be conditioned monthly. But the ones you wear occasionally can be done every two to three months.

4. PolishingPolishing helps with your shoe’s shine. Scuffs and moisture are unavoidable, and polishing acts as a thin protective layer against them.

The first step in polishing involves choosing the right shade of wax polish. Use one that exactly matches your shoe or a shade lighter than its colour. You can also blend colours to create a custom tone, but you should only do this if you are skilled or daring enough (maybe you have an extra pair for experimentation).

Use a dauber brush or soft cloth to apply a thin, even layer of polish in small circles.

The best practice after this is to let the polish sit overnight; that way, the leather thoroughly absorbs it. Thereafter, vigorously brush with a polishing brush until your shoe shines.

For shoes worn regularly, polish about once a week; the ones you don’t wear as frequently should receive a polish every time after use, with a quick shine before wearing.

5. Proper StorageHow you store your shoes can make or break how long they last.

Invest in high-quality wooden shoe trees (cedar is ideal). They absorb residual moisture, neutralise odours, and maintain the shoe’s shape, preventing creases and deformations.

Rotate your footwear. Never wear the same pair two days in a row. Rest days allow shoes to dry thoroughly and retain their form.

For shoes you don’t plan on wearing anytime soon, store them in a cool, dry place, ideally in breathable cloth bags to shield them from dust while allowing air circulation. Avoid plastic boxes or bags, which can trap moisture and allow mould.

6. Protecting Against Water and StainsLeather is vulnerable to water spots and stains. To protect it:

Use a specialised leather protector spray before first wear and reapply every few months. This invisible barrier prevents light moisture and staining. You can also use beeswax, although it leaves a noticeable finish instead of sprays. Apply with a cloth or brush and leave your shoes to dry thereafter.

When spills occur, quickly rub off with a dry cloth and allow your shoes to air dry. If needed, you can recondition and polish based on the damage done.

Avoid using harsh chemicals or household cleaners on your leather shoes; they can damage the finish of your shoes. Always use products designed specifically for leather care.

7. Professional CareEven with diligent daily maintenance, leather shoes occasionally need a deeper cleaning:

Old wax, dirt, and general buildup can be deeply cleaned with a pH-balanced leather cleaner.

Re-dye or refresh the colour if discolouration occurs—many creams double as gentle recolouring agents.

It is best to meet with a professional for damages that need re-soling or restitching.

8. Leather TypesDifferent leathers demand specific treatments:

Smooth leather (polished or embossed) benefits most from the classic clean → condition → polish routine.

Suede and nubuck require a suede-specific brush and protective spray; avoid creams and waxes that can darken the nap.

9. Seasonal ConsiderationsWeather extremes call for adjustments:

Rain: Wipe off the water quickly and use absorbent shoe trees. Never speed-dry with heat. It can cause cracks in your shoes.

Hot, dry climates: You can limit the time between your conditioning frequency to prevent drying.

High humidity: Store shoes in ventilated areas with moisture-absorbing shoe trees.

10. Your Care KitAssemble a kit with: